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Kitchen

Countertop machines that earn their space, and the specifications that predict which ones end up in a cupboard by March.

Kitchen — compared by Brandshoppers

What decides the choice

Countertop appliances have a failure mode that has nothing to do with quality: they get put away. Six months after purchase the machine that seemed essential is in a cupboard, and the reason is almost never that it worked badly. It is that using it cost more effort than the result was worth.

So the specifications worth reading are the ones that predict effort. How many parts come into contact with food, and are they dishwasher safe? A machine with three removable parts that all go in the dishwasher gets used on a Tuesday. One with seven, two of which must be hand-washed immediately, gets used on a Saturday and then stops getting used.

Footprint is the second. Counter space is the real currency in a small kitchen, and an appliance that has to be lifted out of a cupboard before each use has already lost. Check the height too: a machine that does not fit under a wall cabinet lives somewhere else, which usually means nowhere.

Noise is rarely published and matters more than people expect for anything used early in the morning. Where a manufacturer does quote a decibel figure, check the distance it was measured at — one metre is standard, and a figure quoted without a distance tells you nothing.

The last question is the honest one: how often will you really do this? A machine that does one thing brilliantly is excellent value at weekly use and expensive storage at monthly use. That is a question about your habits rather than about the appliance, and no specification answers it.

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